They claim that natives of Salzburg only know the movie if they work with tourists and if they do know it, they hate it because it distorts Austrian history. Whether or not this is completely true (there are NO Austrians who might possibly like the movie?) I appreciated having the information. Not that I was going to venture on a "Sound of Music" tour or anything, but it helped me see behind the mask of what people will do for tourism money (advertisements for these tours are all over! Why sell out if you hate the film?)
While at the Salzburg Fortress (Festung Hohensalzburg) and enjoying a beer and a gorgeous view of Salzburg and the surrounding mountains, Chris and I overheard two American couples who had just met extolling the wonders of the "Sound of Music" tours that each of them had gone on - I listened in with a smirk and though "silly tourists." But the more I think about it, just because the natives might think tourists are stupid for enjoying the film and think they are making an easy buck (or euro), if the visitors enjoy it, why not? Of course it isn't good if it distorts history, but I am sure that could be cleared up on the tour. So upon further reflection, I thought that maybe I am too cynical, and I whether I like it or not, I am a tourist, too!
There is a lot to do in Salzburg besides obsess about "The Sound of Music," but Chris and I only had a day to explore. We arrived around noon on Friday on a flight from London. There is an easy bus connection into the city from the airport, so we hopped on that. Once at the train station we decided to leave our suitcases in a locker, since we would only be staying one night and didn't want to haul them around. It ended up being a good decision, because, while the walk to the place where we were staying was very nice, we got a little bit turned around, and it wouldn't have been quite so nice with two big bags in tow.
Salzburg is gorgeous and we got to walk along the river and through the old town (Altstadt) to our guesthouse. We were lucky to find a very reasonably-priced place to stay in Altstadt and I would highly reccommend it to anyone travelling to Salzburg - Gasthaus Hinterbruhl.
Our room
After settling in and a fun conversation with the patroness (she knew no English and my German is extremely limited. I do know how to say "room" though!) we headed up to our room. It was very cute and welcoming. We tried to resist the lure of a nap (we got up very early to get our flight to Salzburg) but the nap won. A few hours later we set out to explore the city. We saw the Cathedral (Salzburger Dom) and wandered around the streets of old town, and then settled down to rest by the Salzach river for a bit. It was a gorgeous day and many tourists and residents alike were resting by the river.
The view from our room (ignore the cars - beyond is the Salzburger Dom).
While resting, Chris decided to walk a bit along the banks (he called the Salzach a "real river." I guess the Thames didn't impress him much. True, though, the Salzach had a really fast moving current and was very nice-looking. I could see why one would think it superior to other rivers). While sitting there and snapping away some photos, a very drunk guy (maybe 17) came over to talk to me. He started in German, but (even though I am loathe to admit I don't know something) I told him I didn't know German so he switched to English. He asked why I was taking pictures, and said Salzburg is very boring, and he reeked of alcohol. I wasn't sure what his M.O. was, but either way I was not so keen on talking to him. He finally got the pictured and ventured off to talk to another tourist, and he and his friends finally sat down nearby with a group of girls who had a hookah.
I kind of see his point, though. If you were a kid growing up in Salzburg it might not be the most eventful place in the world. It is the fourth-largest city in Austria, but still, the population is only 200,000 or so. And it isn't like it is a city with other big cities nearby, like in the Bay Area. The city has several universities and I am not sure about industry there, but it seems to rely a lot on tourism. Probably not a lot there that a teenager really wants to do. So I guess they get drunk and sit by the river and smoke and talk to tourists. They also throw their empty beer bottles into the river.
The river, and the old town in the background.
After resting for a bit and enjoying the nice weather, we went in search of dinner. I had found a good recommendation for a place to eat that was a bit off the beaten path and therefore not overpriced and overrun with tourists. We found the place eventually and enjoyed a great meal of schnitzel and potatoes (and Stiegl, of course, the local beer).
We had a very content walk back to our room after our delicious meal. We were both still a bit tired, but since it was our only night in Salzburg, we thought maybe we should stay out and explore, or get another drink at a beer garden. We decided to go back and then possibly venture out again. Well, as soon as we got back to our room it started pouring rain (with no warning!) so I was very happy with our decision.
The Salzach and Salzburg at dusk.
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